Sunday, June 21, 2009

Not enough light

It's been a big few weeks. Well, if you count sitting on a rope and bush bashing on my hands and knees in wet jungle as big. I've spent several consecutive weekends exploring the hills to the south west of Nowra. It's sort of the foothills of the Southern Tablelands I guess? Rocks looks the same as Wingello as does the surrounding bush. There is a bunch of crazy 4WD tracks all through the forest as its some sort of state recreation area (not a National Park). These tracks lead to gold if you can navigate and utilize Google Earth. Rick's been putting in the hard yards exploring the area as well. We've found several nice areas, the best is sadly the one with the longest walk-in. I wonder if anyone will bother walking in for 30 minutes to climb the best pockets in New South Wales? Seriously I reckon at least one of the routes I've bolted is simply supersonic. I'm hyperventilating just thinking about it. White polsihed rock with little two and three finger pockets all over it - but spaced enough to make it very interesting climbing. Just like Euro limestone at the 'Tarn. Maybe i can pop down after work and climb it at night? Damn, its 2.5 hours away. The location will be revealed once I've worked out how to get there without crawling across a swamp. Wasn't Mitch hyping up a new area with a swamp in the Bluies? I don't think he had actually found a cliff though - just the epic walk and the swamp. A few weeks back I also did a day at Sublime Point in the Bluies with an old mate Jacqui ( the dope smoking ex-dreaded bike loving chick who moved to Canada - that Jacqui). Anyway - I ticked off one route I bolted there in the rain and at night a few months ago. When I bolted it the wall was a waterfall and I was using the dregs of my bolt kit - some capsules, random recycled rings and the last of my glue. I wasn't even sure if the route made sense as bolting at night gives you mega tunnel vision. Lucky it all made sense when I saw it in daylight. It's very steep (overhangs 5m!) a bit short (16m?) and ultra juggy. Grade 19 juggy I thought! Nice orange rock and totally weatherproof. Might see a few ascents with all the stainless in it. I then had a crack at a mega single pitch I bolted at Bentrovarto Wall - 17 bolts in about 40m of height. Hilariously sustained face climbing which I suck at massively - but working it should give me some technique. I fell off a lot and got to bolt 15 and ran out of rope (and hope?). It then started raining (there is a theme building here). Jaq and I then shot up Sweet Dreams in three pitches and got saturated in the process. We overtook a couple of young punters having an epic on the direct finish in the heavy rain. The poor second was shouldering a rope bag and back pack stuffed with clothes and other crap, whilst slipping and sliding on every hold. Hmmm, what else has been happening? I did Top One Thommo (27) on the weekend. My first hard route since I broke my ankle last year. Yay for me. I'm way more psyched for the new routes out in the highlands.